FAQ 1: Which refinements does the 601 MK3 see over the Mk2?
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FAQ 2: I want to run a dropper post on my Liteville. Will I need a shim?
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FAQ 9: The chain falls off the front chain ring of my 301. What can I do?
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FAQ 10: Is my Liteville MK10 650b or 29\" compatible? Or will Liteville be making a 29er?
\n","stylesMapId":"CK_EDITOR_PARAGRAPH_STYLES","linkList":["#Linkgod","#Link2yo","#Link1ufe","#z4a","#1o9k","#Linkpqj","#Link1h5d","#Linkirz","#Link7jc","#Link19dq"]},"c9za":{"type":"Anchor","id":"c9za","metaData":{"isPreset":false,"schemaVersion":"1.0","isHidden":false},"name":"Anchor 16","compId":"id96cuv9"},"cd3g":{"type":"Anchor","id":"cd3g","metaData":{"isPreset":false,"schemaVersion":"1.0","isHidden":false},"name":"Anchor 10","compId":"imomsy72"},"cm0a":{"type":"StyledText","id":"cm0a","metaData":{"isPreset":false,"schemaVersion":"1.0","isHidden":false},"text":"FAQ 3: I want to run a 'stealth' (ie with internal cable routing) dropper post on my Liteville 301 pre MK11.
\n\nIn this case we suggest a dropper post with cable actuation which attaches just above the seatpost clamp such as th Kind Shock LEV which requires no 'stealth' routing. Note: MK11 onwards have the routing required for stealth posts. MK11 second production run onwards have the routing for both dropper and through top tube. None of the Liteville 301 frames are suitable for routing of dropper post cables where the remote actuator is attached to the seatpost head. The cable routing here is less than ideal.
\n\nHowever, if you wish to use a stealth post such as the Rock Shox Reverb Stealth or the Kind Shock Integra on a pre-MK11 frame, you can modify the frame to allow internal routing:
\n\nhttp://syntace.my1.cc/liteville/pdf/RockShox_Reverb_Stealth_an_Liteville_engl.pdf
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FAQ 4: Can I retrofit another shock to my Liteville 301 MK8/9? (And do EightyOneSpices offer any alternative to the DT shock?)
\nEOS: Yes you can. However, it is important to use a shock with the correct tune. Most shocks are overdamped and the ride characteristics will suffer greatly with a shock with incorrect tune. Liteville have tested several popular shocks and have found the Rock Shox Monarch RT3 Debon Air with specific Liteville tune to work very well in combination with needle bearings at the eyelets for the large majority of riders.
The Rock Shox Monarch RT3 Debon Air upgrade kit is available here... You will need to order the front and rear reduction screw seperately however.
\n\nMr. Q: Any other options?
\n\nEOS: You can purchase from EightyOneSpices either the necesary hardware to convert (Needle bearing pair $34.90 + 2 x Ti reduction screws $24.90/each) to another shock of your choice if you want to experiment.
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FAQ 5: Can I retrofit another shock to my Liteville 301 MK10/11? (And do EightyOneSpices offer any alternative to the Fox shock?)
\nEOS: Yes you can. However, it is important to use a shock with the correct tune. Most shocks are overdamped and the ride characteristics will suffer greatly with a shock with incorrect tune. Liteville have tested several popular shocks and have found the Rock Shox Monarch RT3 Debon Air as it is found on the Mk12/13 with specific Liteville tune to work extremely well for the majority of riders.
The Rock Shox Monarch RT3 Debon Air upgrade kit is available here...
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FAQ 6: My Liteville 301 has started to make squeeking noises that sound like they are coming from the shock. Do I need to get my shock serviced?
\n\nNo, you do most likely not need to service the shock (well you might, but in all likelyhood this is not causing the noise). In all likelyhood, the two quadrings in the top tube pivot require lubrication. These are lubricated when the frame leaves us, and may need lubricating after 1-3 years of riding, depending on how much you ride. This is a five minute job for any competent bicycle mechanic. If you are unsure what to do, please call us. For servicing requirements of the shock please see the DT-Swiss / Fox owner's manual.
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FAQ 7: My Liteville 301 has developed some play in the front shock bushing. This can be felt when I only just lift the bike off the ground by the seat. Can this be repaired?
\n\nWe have had some shocks that have been affected by play in the front ball joint pivot which developes after some months of riding. In order to have this play rectified, please remove the shock from your frame (please call us if you are unsure how to do this) and send it to us. We will replace the ball joint for you and sent the shock back to you the next business day.
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FAQ 8:The chain rubs on the lower front derailleur cage connection when I backpedal in the lowest gear on my cassette. Is this supposed to be normal?
\n\nAre you backpedalling while the bike is in unloaded mode? If yes, then it is normal for the chain to drag on the lower front derailleur connection. Once you sit on the bike and actually ride and have the sag set up properly, there should be no drag in this gear anymore as the rear wheel moves up into the sag position. Also, don't forget that small-small is not a very ideal gear to be riding in as the chain angle is at its full maximum and the chain tension is least, making the chain \"flop around\" more than in a more desirable gear.If the sag is set up correctly and the chain drags while riding in the sag position, then the question is what type of front derailleur and ring setup you are running. If you run a 2x10 derailleur and are using a tripple crank with 22 or 24 tooth small ring, then the lower front derailleur cage connection will sit too high and the chain will drag while riding in the higher gears. Solution: change the derailleur for a tripple E-Type derailleur (recommended), or change small front chain ring to adequately large ring such as 26 or 27 tooth (not recommended because you will lose the full scope of gears).
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FAQ 9: The chain falls off the front chain ring of my 301. What can I do?
\n\nThe Liteville was designed as an all rounder mountain bike light enough for marathon races, but also robust enough to deal with the most demanding of steep and rocky alpine terrain. Hence, the ideal crank/ring set up is: a tripple crank (only Shimano cranks are known to give 100% function, although in our experience SRAM tripple cranks tend to work well too, any other crank may or may not work) with a tripple Shimano E-type derailleur, replace the large ring with a bash ring (such as the Syntace Grinder 34/36) and replace the 32 tooth middle ring with a suitable ring size, such as 34 or 36 tooth (tip go a steel ring for longetivity not an alloy ring) and use the double Syntace SCS chain guide. You can of course combine this setup with a 10 speed cassette and derailleur and shifters if desired.
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The above described setup will give you a system that is both robust (Both the SCS chainguide and the Rockguard are designed to withstand considerable impacts such as you may encounter when working on mastering that log hop or trails move), and will guarantee you will not lose the chain - ever. Why? Because the chain can't fall of on the inside, can't fall off on the outside and the chainline of the SCS is designed for this setup.
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If you are using for example 2x10 Shimano XT cranks, the chainline is different to the cranks the SCS chainguide was designed for, and the SCS may not keep the chain in the correct position, so what may happen is that when you backpedal, the chain moves in a slightly different path than the 2x10 XT cranks need ion order for the chain to stay on securely, and the chain comes off the fron chainring. In addition there is no bash ring to stop this from happening.
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With XTR Shimano trail 2x10 cranks (26/38 FC-M980) for example, the chainline of the two rings is the same as the chain line of the small and middle ring of a tripple crank, hence these 2x10 cranks will work well with the chain line of the Syntace SCS double chain guide (just be aware that you would be missing the recommended Grinder 34/36 bash ring).
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We do not recommend 1x10 systems unless you are using a wide/narrow front ring. If you are using a single front ring, ensure it is mounted in position of the middle ring of a tripple crank and you are using a clutch type rear derailleur.
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FAQ 10: Is my Liteville MK10 650b or 29\" compatible? Or will Liteville be making a 29er?
\n\nLiteville will not be making a 29er specific bike at this stage. Liteville is taking a different approach to wheelsizes than all other bicycle manufacturers currently do. Liteville is extending the principle of proportions most people apply to handle bar width, stem length, crank length and frame size. Liteville is already a world first when it comes to chainstay lengths, the first to use 5 different chainstay lengths throughout the 301 frame sizes. This allows a tall rider and a short rider to experience the same riding characteristics. Extending this principle to wheels, means using a wheel size appropriate to your chosen frame size and then possibly varying this depening on intended riding style and use. Liteville calls this Scaled Sizing (SSi). To see which frame size is compatible with which wheel size please see the scaled sizing PDF on the Liteville website http://www.liteville.com/t/25_30.html
\n\nFor more on Liteville's SCALED SIZING concept CLICK HERE
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YOUR QUESTION HASN'T BEEN ANSWERED - DON'T HESITATE TO CONTACT US! info@eightyonespices.com.au give us a call!
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FAQ 1: Which refinements does the 601 MK3 see over the Mk2?
\n\n- Total frame weight reduced by approx. 100g
\n\n- Otimised kinematics for even better pedalling efficiency with a slightly flatter suspension rate curve: pivot point of the rocker link moved into the down tube which required remodelling of a now lighter rocker link and bearings/pivot hardware. Pivot outer alloy bolts are now the same as the main pivot bolts reducing the number off different parts. Additionally the shock mount on the rocker link was moved to sit 'on top' of the rocker link rather than inside.
\n\n- Shock is the 2014 model Vivid Air RC2.
\n\n- Protection against double crown forks welded into downtube
\n\n- Replaceable stainless steel threads in the main pivot and rocker link pivot point
\n\n- Additional Shimano Direct Mount RD hanger included
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FAQ 2: I want to run a dropper post on my Liteville. Will I need a shim?
\n\nMeanwhile some dropper posts are available in 34.9mm diameter.
\n\nHowever, if you wish to use a model not available in 34.9 that is no problem either. Syntace make following products that are available from us:
\n\n- Syntace Post Shim 30.9: This shim can be used for dropper posts of 30.9mm diameter. The min insert depth of the Liteville frame in combination with this shim is 90mm.
\n\n- Syntace Post Shim Light 31.6: This shim can be used in combination with 31.6mm diameter dropper posts. The regular min. insert depth of 140mm is retained.
\n\nUsing either of the above items is a very clean option which also keeps dirt and grip out effectively when combined with the Syntace Superlock 38 thanks to a trick seal included with the Syntace Shim.
\n\nNote: Always check min. insert depth off all components used!
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